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  • #16
    finally some progress

    So the last photos posted were essentially all i could do until i got some help. Below is what some good help will do for you. NOTE: there are pictures after each paragraph.

    We were able to put up the last row of boards. This was the height that I cut the telephone poles too. Its roughly 9.5 feet inside. However, i chose to go with 8 foot exterior walls to avoid having to rip/cut my siding. Once this was put on we cut the poles, added 4x4's to the inside and then put a 2x8 top plate over both, the top plate being flush with the outside. The purpose of the 4x4 was a last minute upgrade. We should have notched them in but didnt think about it and went the joist hanger route. (At $3/hanger, we should have notched)
    4x4 top plate.JPG

    Top plate.JPG


    We also built the header for the opening. Since I knew a ton of weight was going to be put on this header i beefed it up. I used a double 2x12 LVL beams notched into the poles. We notched it for structural but also to get the last row up on the outside. On top of that, as you can see, is the top plate. Then, instead of a 6x6 which i planned initially, i took that $20 board back and just used a piece of telephone pole to sit on top and support the ridge beam. Only needed about 3.5' anyway.

    Header 1.JPG

    Header 2.JPG

    Finally, and i know someone is going to balk at this, we put the ridge beam up. The place where i bought it had their engineer figure out what i should use. I was planning to use a double 2x12 LVL beam. However, after explaining that i wouldn't have any joists they said i needed either a triple 2x18 LVL or a double 2x24 LVL. Not wanting to prove them right I took the advice and went with a double 2x24. Yes, i do think it is overkill after 1) having seen it in person and 2) having put it up. However, its a little late for that. We ended up notching the ridge beam in 18". This was fun work with a chainsaw. Side note: wear goggles and a mask when cutting telephone poles. I wear saftey glasses but goggles were needed and the dust being slightly carcinogenic.. as mask is never a bad idea.
    FYI - ridge beam was put in place using a boom on a skid steer. We used guide rope to put it up but were fortunate that only minimal shimming was required to get it level and vertical. Also, the plywood you see down was for a scissor lift. My family member is letting me borrow it and it has also been a blessing to have. Not sure how else one could work at 14' up without it. A tall ladder wouldnt be fun with a 16' 2x8.

    The 2x24 LVL ran me $11.42/ft and i had 60'
    The 2x12 LVL ran me 5.42/ft and i had 28' (garage header, 2x 14 ft'ers)
    Then i bought 60 2x8x16 for rafters.
    I had the 4x4s so no cost there. All in all i spent about $2k this time but am not finished using the materials i've bought.

    Ridge Beam.JPG

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    • #17
      And more progress...

      Sorry for the delay but i've been busy. However, its raining so i thought i would catch up on here...

      I've since gotten all of the rafters put up, the roof decked and metal put down. Being that the building was out of square the rafters were fun since i was bird-mouthing each one. After making a template for each side and using it to measure by it actually went pretty quickly. My overhang on the sides was cut to 30" and the gable ends is 24".
      I bought my decking from HD. I ended up buying the techshield radiant barrier plywood. It is only 7/16" but my rafters are on 16" centers. Being that the roof was not square at all we found that the easiest way to put down the deck was to line the first sheet with a rafter in the middle. We ended up having to trim all four sides of the roof (both N and S sides, 8 total cuts) but it made quick work for laying down the deck once the first row was down.
      When i bought my metal I saw they had radiant barrier underlayment. If i had known this i would have went with that and 3/4" decking instead of 7/16". Regardless, I would recommend radiant barrier.

      For the gable end eaves we notched in 2x4 runners perpendicular to the rafters. We did 7 total spaced about 1.5' apart for each gable end rafter. This provides ample support for the eaves. We also put in studs directly underneath them for extra support. Putting up the gable end rafters was easy. I took an 8' 2x4 and pushed it up under the other rafters and then tacked it in place, leaving a tail sticking out on the gable ends. this allows me to directly set the 2x8 rafter while i work on getting the runners in place. To notch in the 2x4s we first measure where they needed to be then took a circular saw and cut the outside lines. Then we cut every half inch with the circular saw. NOTE: the depth of the saw was set to a 2x4. Once we had 6-7 cuts we took a chisel and stuck in one of the cuts on the ends. pulling back sheared the blocks of wood and left a fairly clean notch. We then touched them up with the chisels. It goes pretty quick unless you hit a knot.

      Below are pictures.You'll notice that there is protecto-wrap on the ridge beam. It started swelling and warping when it had its end exposed to rain and the sun. The one on the north side did not do this. Its standard window tape and i would recommend it for anyone that will leave their Laminated beams upright and exposed for any length of time. The tape is rated for exposure up to 90 days so that should buy you some time.

      Rafters.JPG
      Eave 2.JPG
      Eave 1.JPG
      Eave 3.JPG
      Fully sheated.JPG

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      • #18
        That should last a long time !! Good Job!!!
        People without any brains do an awful lot of talking. Don't they?!
        ~the Scarecrow from the Wizard of Oz

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